Coastal Photography

Composition, light, shutter speed and so much more is discussed in this chapter as Karl is joined by pro landscape photographer Nick Després and together they discuss all the basics that you need to know when it comes to landscape photography.

They also cover planning, camera choices and the use of graduated neutral density filters, neutral density filters and polarizing filters and how you can use these to enhance your images. You’ll also learn how to use slow shutter speeds to blur the motion of waves and why it’s important to use a cable release.

This landscape photography class covers step by step techniques that you can use to get great landscape images every time.

In this landscape photography class we cover the following:

  • Landscape photography: What makes a good landscape photograph
  • Landscape photography tips
  • Research and planning for landscape photography
  • Camera settings for landscape photography
  • Filters: Neutral density, graduated and polarizing filters
  • Equipment and accessories for landscape photography

If you have any questions about this photography class please post in the comment box below.

NOTE: This photography class is available with subtitles.


  1. Hi!

    In one of the final scenes in this video I saw Nick using a black card to cover then lens for a moment during the shot. What was he trying to accomplish? Is this a certain technique that is covered later?

    All the best!


  2. Also an off camera monitor… much better than the Canon back screen…. also you mention changing F stop and speed but not Iso or are you right down at 100 already?

    1. Hi Ned, yes that’s possible but you have to be very careful or things start to look a little unnatural. I prefer to get it in one exposure and pull just a little shadow detail from the raw file instead.

  3. Hi, Mr. Taylor.

    How about exposure bracket modes? Will this also help in achieving the desired overall exposure of the image due to an over-expose sky and under-exposed foreground?

    Albeit the hassle of having to stitch the three or more photos together in post production.

  4. I have a circular polariser, it always seem to underexpose the images on the Nikon D750. Seems I always have to brighten up shadows in post. Nikon suggest not using Matrix/Evaluative metering but Centre weighted with a larger radius with a Polariser.
    But it still underexposes and the shadows are very dark and less contrast, although the colours pop. In fact going by the camera meter without a filter it errs on the side of underexposure. Totally strange. Only with the brightest diffused light it seems to get it right.

    Is there a test I could do?

  5. Hi Karl !

    If the light is too bright on the bottom and on the top and you are using a graduated ND filter, the F is already 22 and you want to maintain 2 seconds, can you use a second filter, for example a simple ND filter ? Does the Lee-system support two filters at the same time ?

  6. Hi Master
    its a fantastic shoot.i really enjoy to see u at any location trying to shoot cause that just a great shoot can be

  7. Hi

    I’m just getting into landscape photography and have been looking at filters, although I appreciate that you get what you pay for I think the Lee system is out of my price range. What would be a comparative set up in say Cokin or Kood filters?

    With thanks


    1. Hi Jack, the main filters you need would be a couple of different strength ND grads, a polarizer and a plain ND filter. That would do most of what you need.

  8. For shooting with polarisers, is there a noticeable difference or benefit when using a square-shaped vs round? Is it a photographers preference? I use the Lee 105mm rotating polariser and am curious of the differences.

    1. Hi Amie, It’s not actually the shape of the polariser that matters. This often confuses people because they hear the term ‘circular’ polariser or ‘linear’ polariser but this does not refer to the actual shape of the filter only to the way it polarises the light. Both do the same thing but a circular one doesn’t upset the autofocus or metering system of some cameras. However I’ve generally always used the linear type with no ill effect and I think the liner polarisers may be a little stronger in polarisation but I’d have to do a direct comparison test to confirm.

  9. Yes, where do we focus?
    Also what metering is being used eg spot, centre or multi. Are these shots taken with focus on the foreground then recomposing?

    1. Karl is always in full manual and just takes an image, then adjusts the exposure to suit what he wants, the focus is on what you want the focus point to be in the shot, the example shots there need the rocks to be sharp in the foreground but it depends, most landscape shots are best with a small aperture at infinity focus so the shot is sharp throughout

    1. you want to have a small aperture so the shot is sharp all the way through or if you are shooting something in the foreground make sure that is the focus point, unless you are using it as occlusion, I guess it also depends on the shot and what you are trying to capture

  10. Very nice. I would appreciate it if you would share some non standard imformation. There are 5000 photographers on youtube saying this exact same thing. I signed up to learn some “tidbits” from a top tier photographer which you are. Thanks

    1. Agree

  11. I shoot a lot of seascapes at sunrise or sunset and I haven’t done much with long exposures. These are fantastic. Could you tell what ISO was used here please? If it was said in the video I missed it. Thank you. Enjoying the videos.
    Take care,

    1. Hi Sharon, in nearly all situations you will want to be at a low ISO like the default of 100ISO on most cameras, with a low ISO you have the least noise and also the least sensitivity to light, which is exactly what you need for longer exposures as often the main problem with long exposures is getting too much light so we put neutral density filters on to compensate. Depending on the time of day you may still need to use an ND filter to get make the longer exposure possible.

Leave a Comment