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Seascapes Tips and Tricks
In this video, Karl is down at a lovely location looking for coastal details and seascape compositions. Finding a couple of shots that should work out well, Karl reveals a few useful photo tips that he uses when looking for seascape shots.
Questions? Please post them in the comments section below.
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Question and something I’ve been wondering for a while that maybe you’ll know the answer to- instead of blending your two photos in post would it be possible to just do a double exposure in camera and achieve the same results in situations like this one where you can’t use an ND filter?
Hi, yes if the camera allows a double exposure in camera but not all cameras do, but do the cameras that do allow you to zone which section of the sensor you want each exposure to be in?
I shoot with a Canon R6. There’s no way to control the zone of the sensor but there are three different options for the multiple exposure: additive, average, and bright/dark. I haven’t played around with it much yet so I’m not entirely sure how it all works 🙂
Hi, then that won’t be able to do what we were talking about. Filters will be the only way to capture it in one shot in camera or using two layers in photoshop from two different images.
Karl, what do you think of Mobile Apps such as PhotoPills for Landscape and Seascape shoot planning etc.?
Hi Hein, I have PhotoPills an TPE both very good tools for planning.
One tip I discovered is using live view when using high strength filters like a big stopper.
For instance, I wanted to shoot some blur in a distant windmills going around whilst retaining other parts sharp in daylight.
I focus using the viewfinder 1/3 in the distance if say using F16. For this shot I couldn’t use a grad because the subject was entering the sky, so a little brightening of the shadow details in Photochop may be required, depending on the light source direction. Then I pop the filter on and turn on live view as your viewfinder is practically black. You can then adjust the shutter speed down to say 1/2s and keep the low ISO (just as you like low ISO Karl :)) until the image comes into view on the LCD and usually the exposure meter helps you in the right direction. Because its live view and essential a video screen this makes it possible. This works well in daylight or 1 hour before sunset when using filters and exposure is usually on the mark.
It saves using a chart or taking a number of test shots.