Deep Blue Fashion Shoot

In this class Karl wanted to experiment with two potential directions. The first was to capture our model Britanny’s incredible energy and poise as she gracefully and dynamically twists, turns and moves her body to provide expression and narrative to the images.

The first part of this class focuses on how to translate the variety of poses into a sublime almost monochromatic, blue tone photograph. Karl had opted for a particular outfit, background, colour scheme and lighting that would focus the viewers attention directly on the ‘pose’ rather than be distracted by too much colour or any other aesthetics. In this class you can follow the process, the set, the colour, lighting and posing to achieve the desired result.

In the second part of this set we move to a different theme, but same colour scheme, where we introduce flowing semi transparent fabrics as part of the composition. This addition provided it’s own challenges for the photography, assistant and model but the almost ‘cultural’ and ‘organic’ connotations of the final outcome were well worth the effort.

Deep Blue Fashion Shoot 1

Deep Blue Fashion Shoot 2

Comments

  1. Hi Karl, I see in video that phocus software show “no camera connected” but you shooted in thethering mode. I’m asking this because I would know how you set the WB. When I use my H5 or X1 hasselblad in thethering I always set Kelvin and tint in phocus software but I can’t use AWB mode (and i can’t know camera make white balancing). I saw in your video lesson that you start to shoot with 5650K and 2 tint. Some pictures later I saw that kelvin was 5750 and -7tint.
    My question: How do you set WB in thethering mode with hasselblad and Broncolor flash? I mean how to start before to make some custom look or white reference.
    Thsnk you so muche for your awesome work and skills.

    1. Hi, sure and thank you. Sometimes my software looses the connection and has been a bit buggy, for the white balance I’m usually put a grey card in to check my white balance and then I use the eye dropper tool to neutralise, especially if I’m switching to vastly different modifiers. When you neutralise with the eye dropper tool the white balance number will change but not usually by much. Generally speaking if you’ve got it around 5600-5900 then it will be in the ball park and you can always adjust it later manually before you export your files. We have a video on the colour checker card in use here https://visualeducation.com/class/how-to-use-a-colour-checker-card/

  3. jeahn

    Hi, Karl! I really loved the style of this one.

    I recently learned about nets that function similar to a flag but reduce exposure rather than blocking it entirely. Do you think a net would have been a viable solution to reduce the exposure on the jacket only?

    Cheers and thank you!

    1. Hi Jeahn, yes net flags are useful. They can come in a frame and logically they act like a sieve for light instead of water. Some of the light gets through and some doesn’t, an alternative is to put a large ND filter gel in a frame which works in a similar way, with an ND gel you already know the f-stop reduction strength so that can be used as a guide in how much light it will block and how much will pass through. The only difficulty with ND gels is finding sheets or rolls big enough to do this instead of having to tape sheets together. Of course the ND gel can be applied directly to the light meaning it’s size doesn’t have to be as large but if you only want to block light to a localised area and not another part of the shot then using a net or gel as a flag may be more appropriate.

  4. Wow. That was an amazing session. Like being in on a private photo shoot for a fashion magazine.
    Loved the futuristic look…especially the second part. Britanny was a true champ.

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