Types of Studio Lighting

So many lights. So much to learn. Let Karl break it down for you.

In this class, legendary professional photographer Karl Taylor illuminates the world of studio lighting, covering the many different types of light, how they work, and when to use them.

Highlighting the key differences between different systems, he explains the advantages and disadvantages of each, as well as the type of work they are best suited for.

This class will give you a deeper understanding of studio lighting – one that will help you to improve your photography.

In this class:

  • Different types of studio light
  • The fundamentals of working with lights: power sources, power settings, and triggering lights
  • Adjustments and attachments
  • Pack systems vs monoblock systems vs lithium systems
  • Best lighting systems for studio and location work

If you enjoy this class, check out Lighting Modifiers and Their Effects and Precision Lighting: Modifiers and Techniques.

You may also enjoy playing with our amazing Lighting Comparison Visualiser tool.

Questions? Please post them in the comments section below.

Comments

  1. Hi Karl,

    I have 2 x Siros S Monoblocks which as you know plug into the mains. I have 2 x picolites coming today (1600J) and would like to get to Unilites. I also have 2 x Canon EL-1 Speedlites.

    I work in a small converted dining room and create product, food and a small amount of Portrait.

    I would really appreciate your thoughts on power pack – 1600 (ideal for my budget) vs 3200. I would rather wait if the 3200 is going to make a huge difference to me and my work.

    As always, thank you for your time and professional advice.

    Many thanks

    Nick

    1. Hi Nick, the only difference between the 3200 and 1600 is one stop of light in power (equivalent to changing your ISO from 100 to 200). If that one stop of power is not a problem for you then you can certainly save some money by going for the 1600. The other thing to consider is how many output ports, on the 3200 pack there is 3 on some of the 1600 packs there are only 2 outlets. The total power available to you is the amount of the pack then divided however you like between the outlets. As an example whenever I’m using a 3200 pack on power 10 then I’m using all 3200J and there would be no joules left for the other outlets, if I’m using an outlet on power 8 then that is equivalent to 800J and I still have 2400 left between the other outlets. If I had 2 outlets on 8 and one on 9 then I’d be using 1600, 800 and 800.

      1. Hi Karl,

        Thank you for your detailed reply and explanation about power distribution between outlets on the power packs. Karl Taylor Education truly is the best photographic learning platform by far. As always, it’s greatly appreciated!

      2. Hi Karl,
        If there is 3 f-stops between the powers of the lights connected to the Scoro, there is no color distortion, but as soon as it exceeds 3 f-stops, the opt.color temp. phrase disappears from the screen. Assuming that there can be a 3 f-stop difference, does it make more sense to buy two scoro packs? My second question is about Picolites, as you know, Picolites are max 1600j, when you connect a Picolite to Scoro 3200 and set the power to 10, will the Picolite be damaged, does it make more sense to buy 1600 Scoro for Picolite?
        Thank you

        1. Hi Zee, I’ve never seen that the optimum colour option is removed on a range greater than 3 stops? Yes if a picolite is used on a 3200 pack then you shouldn’t set the power above 8.6 for the Picolite as a rule.

  2. Thank you for such an informative video. I have a Canon R5 with an RF 50mm prime L series and RF 100mm macro prime L series. I love product and commercial photography with a hint of portrait.

    I am looking to purchase a new lighting setup and can’t choose between the Broncolor Siros 800S Pro Three Head Kit – WiFi/RFS2 or the Broncolor Siros 400S Expert Twin Head Kit – WiFi.RFS2. I think that I would have much greater flexibility with a three-light setup; however, I would appreciate your opinion, please? I won’t be taking the kit outdoors and ideally plug straight into the mains as I can’t stretch to the power pack (yet).

    Broncolor Siros 800S Pro Three Head Kit – WiFi/RFS2
    https://www.wexphotovideo.com/broncolor-siros-800s-pro-three-head-kit-wifirfs2-1607810/

    Broncolor Siros 400 S Expert Twin Head Kit WiFi/RFS 2
    https://www.wexphotovideo.com/broncolor-siros-400-s-expert-twin-head-kit-wifirfs-2-1607805/

    I apologise if we are not supposed to post links, and I will remove them immediately. They are merely for reference.

    Many thanks in advance

    Nick

  3. Hi, Karl, thanks for making your wealth of knowledge available to us. I would love your opinion on the cost/benefit ratio in regards to studio lighting. With camera sensors and lenses, speeding lots more money can get you a dramatic improvement in image quality. I’m wondering if the same holds true for spending lots more money on studio monolights.

    I’m using a Fuji GFX 100s with Fuji lenses in my home studio for still lifes and portraits. The upgrade in image quality from my full frame Canon camera was pretty dramatic and to me worth spending 2 to 3 times the money. In your opinion, does spending 2 to 3 times more to upgrade my current Godox QT 600 monolights give me a similar upgrade in image quality? Or with studio lighting does that increase cost go mostly for things like reliability, color consistency, and material quality, all of which are important to professionals. But does the quality of your monolight have a significant, direct impact on your image quality similar to the quality of your lens and sensor?

    Thanks,
    Mark

    1. Hi Mark, in answer to your question mostly no. The biggest increase in quality will come from your choice and range of modifiers. More expensive flash heads like Broncolor or Profoto etc will get you more consistent exposures level bursts so if you’re doing a layered composit of say a focus stack then each flash will be exactly the same output meaning you have no problems of exposure shifts when comping together. If you’re doing lots of high speed or fast fashion work then the faster flash durations may be better on the more expensive systems and the power range greater and the recharge time quicker but in terms of the light that comes out of the unit on a standard sort of shoot then no. Here’s an example of me shooting with your lights – https://visualeducation.com/class/live-photography-workshop-creative-portrait-lighting-2-0/

  4. HI, Karl, I really enjoyed learning the courses you developed as I strongly believe light and shadow is what visual works about.

    My question is I am doing mainly videography and I have already a few continuous light. I wonder if its possible for me to do product videos and photos + wedding video /photos with these continuous lights to achieve roughly same result except for high speed photography which obviously not possible

    1. Hi Evelyn, if you continuous lights are high CRI then they will work perfectly well for still life and product work as long as you can use the right modifiers and are able to black out your studio. For wedding work or anything with movement I don’t think they will be versatile enough.

  5. Hi Karl,
    This is my first time that I have paid for online tutorials and I think its paying off immensely in my first week itself. For the first time, I really understood the science behind strobes. Thank you very much.

    I am a nature and birds photographer, but now would like to venture into product, portrait and commercial photography. I am planning to set up my own mini studio to begin with.

    I am not able to afford broncolor which is way off my budget. What alternatives would be able to recommend? As I grow and make money, I may be able to spend higher but for now Broncolor is out of my range unfortunately.

    Venu

    1. Hi thanks and glad you are learning lots from our classes, keep going through them as there is a lots more to learn. If broncolor is out of your budget then maybe Elinchrom or Godox?

  6. Hello Karl really enjoying learning . I am very new to flash lighting. Does the modelling light stay on during the shoot? I saw on some of your other videos you have a constant light on then the flash on top. Is this right? Thank you. Sarah

    1. Hi, Yes the modelling light stays on and in most cases it has little impact on the overall lighting from the flash burst surrounding the modelling bulb as the flash burst is so much brighter but this is covered more in the following classes.

  7. Remig

    Hello Karl,

    My name is Remi and I am a new member. I am really enjoying KTE, learning a lot, it is like a gold mine.. So first of all thank you so much for all you do!

    I’ve got a question which I am not sure was asked before: as a beginner on a budget, would you start with a set of new entry-level studio lights such as godox, or would you prefer old second hand quality lights such as broncolor?

    1. Hi Remig, welcome aboard and I’m glad you are enjoying the platform. That’s a good question, the Godox brand seems very good value I must say I have 3 Godox lights and they seem to work just fine but I don’t use them all the time so I don’t know what they would be like with heavy usage in terms of durability. The broncolor stuff is renowned for being built to last, and I know people still using packs that are 25 years old so I don’t think you’d have any problems with second hand, a flash tube might need replacing now and again but more often because i smash them accidentally. Either choice I’m sure you’ll be fine, 400J power is the minimum you should go for though.

  8. Hi Karl,

    I have a budget to invest in one light , and I need your advices.

    If you have to choose between the Profoto D1 500 or the Broncolor Siros 800 S, which one is the best.

    It’s for food photography , and Im looking to create the chiaroscuro light.

    Thank you very much
    Lou

    1. Hi Lou, personally I have to recommend broncolor because I prefer their lighting. You would also need an Octabox 150 or Octabox 75 to acheive the lighting style you are talking about. The size of the softbox you need will be dependent on the distance from your subject. Please see our ‘lighting theory’ section for further information.

  9. Karl, I am really excited to learn from you. These gems that you are sharing with us have motivated me to take my equipment out and enjoy this art of photography that I love. Thank you so much for your dedicated approach and attention to detail. I hope I can master these techniques. You are masterful in shaping the light, and I want to learn all I can from you. Thanks so much for re-invigorating my passion for this beautiful platform. I can’t tell you how much I antiscipate gaining the confidence I need to do this. I am so grateful and honored to learn from you and your masterful teaching techniques. Thank you so much!

    [email protected]

  10. Hi Karl, you are a great inspiration for photography, it’s incredible what you create. It was the reason for me to also follow your education. It’s amazing and my best investment on photography ever. You have a totally no-nonsense approach, I love your style and highly respect the craftmanship you possess. Thanks, and greetings, André

      1. Like your videos. May I ask you something? I just have a speedlight and Id like to know what is the difference betweeen it and a strobe. The spread of light, due to a rounded bulb surface? The full light spectrum? Thank you!

        1. Hi Alessandra, a speedlite puts out a burst of light that is 5600K (daylight balanced). A studio light does exactly the same except it is more powerful and the bulb protrudes outwards a bit, there are also more modifiers available for studio lights than speedlites. The spread of light from the protruding bulb makes the modifiers more effective. That is really the only differences.

  11. Thank you great lesson! is there anywhere where you discuss TTL vs. Manual? I want to get lights but I am confused with these options.

    1. Hi Molly, there are several live shows where I mention how pointless TTL is in studio flash lighting. Don’t worry about TTL, as you progress through this platform and learning lighting you will see how simple it is to control the power of your lighting like the volume control on your music player.

  12. Many thanks Karl i learn a lot from you i am from EGYPT i need to do Business with you here like a academy in Egypt or make a studio for any business need

  13. Hello Karl, thank for the video and explanation above. since im also using some of broncolor product, i wanted to ask if can a broncolor move L head lamp powered by a broncolor sccoro 3200 pack/capacitor ? if yes, are there any risk that it will be damaging the move L head because of power difference ? thankyou

    1. Hi Nugi, don’t plug a 1200 Move/Mobi head into a Scoro pack. Check with Broncolor or your dealer on this.

  14. Gary Stasiuk

    Hey Karl
    I’ve yet to find in your videos an explanation of why you might use a fresnel lens on a light. I’ve heard it mentioned in various videos I’ve seen on youTube and I think you mention it in some of your videos but I haven’t seen what it does, or how to use it, or why you might choose to use it. With a light it creates a spotlight or focus of the light.. I am assuming, but have not seen it used. I used to shoot 4×5 and I am understand the way it works as the focussing screen uses the aid of a fine fresnel, but that is a different purpose, even if the physics and principles are the same.

  15. Hey Karl when using an Studio Strobe Flash Light do you have to close the lights off the room and keep it dark and when using the camera light meter do you need to keep the button on 0 to get right exposure
    Because when using 50mm 1.8 it’s not getting right exposure with the flash studio strobe is that because you can not change the shutter speed less than 1/200

  16. How limiting is a 400WS strobe versus 800WS? Obviously it’s stop of difference in light, but practically speaking, when would you run out of power with 400WS stobes? Buying a pair of 400WS strobes instead of 800WS leaves more money from the budget for better/bigger/more modifiers.

    1. Hi Andrew, you answered your own question. It’s one stop difference which is the same as going from f11 to f8 or increasing your ISO from 100 to 200. How limiting would that be for you in 80% of shooting situations? Probably not at all. There’s just the occasional situation where the light might have bigger modifier (sucks up more light) that is further away than usual and you wish you had an extra stop so that you could keep your current aperture and not increase your ISO.

  17. Hey Karl,

    is it possible to combine a flashlight with a continuous light ? the reason for such a question is my limited budget at this time. At the time i have 2 continuous lights and i am planning to buy 2 flashlights. the Main areas of application is the Product Photography.

    i hope i could give you enough information.
    looking forward to receive a response from you.

    Best regards
    Selim

    1. Hi Selim, yes this is perfectly possible as long as the colour temperature (Kelvin) of the lights is the same and that the continuous lights have a good full spectrum (as explained in the ‘introduction to light’ in this section). If using continuous light then you need to make sure you are also shooting in a darkened room so that you don’t get light pollution into the shot from other light sources. Watch this video for further info – https://visualeducation.com/class/how-to-use-continuous-led-lighting-for-packshot-photography/

    1. Hi Nikz, I’m afraid I can never recommend or not recommend anything that I’ve never heard of or physically tested myself. I do get this question a lot, for example a lot of people have been begging me for information on the new Sony A1, it looks great on paper but I’ve never picked one up so I can’t give an opinion I’m afraid.

  19. Question: When building your “studio light arsenal”, Do you have to stay with a single brand in order to have the “trigger” to work with them or is there a trigger that could work with all brands?

    Thanks

    1. Hi, No you can mix brands no problem and I have done so many times in the past. The trigger for a brand will fire that brand but slave cells on other lights will pick up the light and fire simultaneously or you can buy independent triggers or cables. Cheers Karl.

  20. Hello Karl,

    I’ve been a leisure photographer for about 10 years and just now I started using Studio Lighting. My first session was a small engagement party. The photos came out nice but they do look a bit peachy or yellow for some reason. I had selected FLASH in the camera settings while I was shooting.

  21. My first paid tutorial and it’s worth the investment after spending 3 hours learning. Quick question, are these light stands available for buy alone?

  22. derrick_connell

    I’m enjoying this – and I love your approach.

    I was worried you would “assume” some knowledge and brush over things, but your clear, simple and comprehensive modules are brilliant. I had some knowledge of flash / continuous and I own three GODOX AD200’s but I had missed some aspects of the lighting.

    I am getting more excited about learning some of the more advanced techniques as your coaching style is perfect for me.

  23. Really liking the classes.

    Mind if I ask what light stands are you using?

    I am for one considering purchasing some used Broncolor equipment (torn between the unilite and the pulso g, thinking if the focusing / zoom function of the pulso g is a deal breaker) do you have thoughts on this? Also I wanted to understand if say a 1600w/s Power Pack can power say a 3200 w/s Lamphead just trying to understand the nuances. Thanks.

  24. Hello, Dumb Newbie question here.

    It seems I have continuos lighting – 2x Esddi soft boxes. It says they are 85w bulbs each but it adds up to 400w. I don’t understand that?

    I’m trying to understand it as if I brought 2 x 400w strobe lights, it would be twice the price but surely it’s a lot brighter? or there would be no point getting them? I feel I’m getting lost in Watts!

    I also have 2 x Neewer continuos LED’s which are dimmable but can also change from 5600k to 3200k. I’ve had some great effects using the warmer lighting.

    If a strobe light is stuck at 5500 how do you get other temperatures of light. Do you use filters or do you have to by other strobes?

    Basically I’m wondering if I should buy some strobes, so I can practice what’s on the tutorial or would it make any difference?

  25. Thank you so much! Interesting class. You are doing that I lose the scare to these equipment. I am amateur photographer but it’s my first time that I’m so glad paying a subscription. I’m learning a lot. Definitely I’m in the right place. Thank you!

    1. Hi, there are many types of lighting systems and brands, the principles I’ve explained are similar for all. The more expensive units have faster flash durations, greater durability and usually a better choice of modifiers. Although the broncolor modifiers have adapters to fit other brands.

  27. Hi Karl,

    Really learning alot from your videos so thank you.
    Quick one for a beginner looking to get into using strobes.
    What would you recommend, to buy 1 light to start learning(to see what you can and cant do with just one) or a couple for flexibility?

  28. Hi sir, I am beginner and want to buy studio light kit or setup on budget. i have canon 600d camera. Can you recommend any brand for studio light?

    1. Hi Jatin, no I’m afraid we can’t recommend any particular budget brand. Our favourite brand and the one I use is Broncolor but if this is out of your budget there are plenty of others to chose from such as Elinchrom, Bowens, Godox.

  29. A question about the Siros-L units from Broncolor:

    I have two of these. Sometimes, they flash at maximum power regardless of the setting. For example, it might be set to 3.5 but will flash at 10.0. Usually it happens once and then reverts to whatever the setting is but sometimes it happens twice in a row, or will flash at 10., then 3.5 (if that is the setting) for many flashes, then 10 again, then back to 3.5. Have you ever seen this happen? Do you know what is going on and if there is a way to prevent it?

    Best regards,

    AP

    2. Hi AP,
      Your question is months old and you probably already know the answer by know, but in case someone else has the issue and is reading the questions ;
      The reason for the high power flash after you drop the setting is because the capacitor is already charged at the higher level. So for example, you have the power at 8.5, the capacitor will charge up ready to fire a 8.5 burst. When you drop the setting, the capacitor is still holder the 8.5 charge, so the first shot, will be at 8.5, then the capacitor only charges to the new value.
      The trick is to remember this, and when dropping power, hit the test button once, to discharge the capacitor. This is normal behaviour – you will notice in Karl’s videos, when he or an assistant drops power, the flash always fires immediately afterwards.
      Hope this helps.

      1. Hi John, this is correct for many flash systems. With some like the Scoro pack it will drop the power for you but it takes longer than just hitting the test button and dumping the power.

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